Goan Sweet Potato Bebinca (Bebinca de Batata)

Portuguese settlers who came to Goa in the 16th century brought their custard-style desserts with them. Origin of bebinca is unknown though legend has it that the cloistered nuns in the convent of Santa Monica in old Goa used to starch their spotless habits with egg whites. With the leftover yolks, a Portuguese nun named Bebiana decided to whip them into a seven layered dessert to symbolise the seven hills of Lisbon and the old city of Goa. The missionary priests liked her creation, but suggested she add more layers. Bebinca, the queen of Goan desserts is said to be named after her. 

There are five variations to bebinca, one is bebinca de batata prepared with sweet potatoes. Baked either unlayered or layered. I have done the latter though the preparation is painstaking and time-consuming. It is relatively simple and easy once you get into the rhythm of building a couple of layers, alternated with the dark and light batter with ghee (clarified butter) acting as an adhesive in between. Care should be taken to apply the ghee over each layer with a silicone brush once it is cooked. This holds the layers together and helps in the creation of a pièce de résistance, an absolute masterpiece. Enjoyed as a dessert or at tea-time. Sweet and high in calories, it should be consumed in moderation.

Light and dark batter
​

First dark layer cooked under the broiler

Cooking of the first layer on the stovetop

Second light layer cooker under the broiler

​Goan Sweet Potato Bebinca (Bebinca de Batata)
(Yields 1200 grams)

Ingredients:
600 grams sweet potatoes (boiled and peeled)
2 and 1/2 cups thick coconut milk
1/4 cup sugar
6 egg yolks
1 cup all-purpose flour or maida (sifted)
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg powder
1/2 teaspoon cardamom powder
2 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter, melted)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar + 3 tablespoons water (for caramel)

Method:
On medium flame, heat a saucepan with 1/4 cup sugar and let it caramelize. Do not stir but if you notice sugar that has not melted then gently move around with a spoon. When the sugar turns into an amber colour, add 3 tablespoons of water and stir to dissolve. Heat to slightly thicken and take off heat. As it cools, it will turn into a syrupy consistency. (Note: If it hardens on cooling, add very little water and run in the microwave for 30 seconds. Stir to mix and run again for another 30 seconds. Set aside to cool and thicken before adding to the batter.)

In a blender, add the cooled sweet potatoes, coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar, flour, cardamom powder, nutmeg powder and salt. Mix gently until well combined. Do not whip in too much air.

Note:

1. Kitchenaid blender mix mode was used.

The batter is around 6 cups so divide into two bowls, i.e. 3 cups batter in each bowl. To one, add the caramel to achieve a brown colour. (Note: I added all the caramel so ensure that you don’t burn or blacken the sugar.)

To build 6 layers, 1 cup of batter will be used for each layer, the dark alternating with the light one.

Note:

1. If you have a large oven with four positions, then place the oven rack in the second position from top.

Preheat the oven only the top grill (element) or broiler to 400 F or 200 C.

Take a 8-inch x 3.5-inch cake pan and heat directly on the stovetop on medium flame. Add a little ghee and tilt the pan so that it covers the entire bottom. Once slightly hot, stir the dark batter and pour 1 cup into the pan. Tilt to spread and cover the entire bottom. Let this layer cook on the stovetop on medium heat till the sides and edges are set (see picture above). Transfer the pan to the oven and grill until the top is cooked with brown specks. Keep a watchful eye. The first layer took only 5 minutes to cook.

Remove the pan from the oven. Then, using a silicone brush, apply ghee all over the first layer. (Note: Do not just spoon in some ghee but take the trouble and use a silicone brush. This process will adhere all the layers together.)

Now stir the light batter and add 1 cup on top of the first layer. Tilt and spread to cover all over. Place the pan under the grill to cook. The second layer took 6 minutes.

Though the first layer took only 5 minutes to cook, the following layers took 6 to 8 minutes. So keep a watchful eye and ensure that each layer is properly cooked and brushed with ghee.

Note:

1. In between cooking, if you notice that the layers bubble up, just press it down with a back of a measuring cup or spoon. Alternatively, use a toothpick to release the air.
2. Stir the batter each time before pouring into the measuring cup and alternating dark with the light.
3. Only the top grill (broiler mode) was used.

Allow the bebinca to cool and set before unmoulding, at least for 12 hours.

To unmould, place the pan on the stovetop on low heat for 30 seconds. This is to melt the solidified ghee at the bottom of the pan. Run a knife (blunt side) along the sides of the pan. This will avoid cutting through the bebinca and give a clean finish. Now gently move the pan up and down, both clockwise and anti-clockwise to ensure that it is released.

Invert onto a dish, cut into wedges or desired pieces and serve.

Note:

1. Use 200 grams grated coconut avoiding the brown skin to extract the milk. Add 2 and 1/2 cups of warm water and run coconut in a blender. Strain and extract the thick juice.
2. Grilling time of each layer will vary depending on the size, type and brand of the oven.
3. Gently press down each layer all around once cooked with the back of a spoon or a measuring cup. This will ensure even layers.
4. The bottom of the bebinca will not burn in the oven as the top element is only used throughout the cooking process.
5. Potato bebinca was perfectly sweet.
6. Regular potatoes can be substituted for sweet ones. Adjust by increasing the amount of sugar, as desired.
7. Instead of caramel, edible food colours can be used to build various layers.