“Purument” in Konkani is derived from the Portuguese word “provisão” meaning provision. The process of stocking up for the harsh and volatile monsoon season dates back to centuries when there were no means of refrigeration. Even with modern amenities these days, some Goans still follow the tradition of procuring, preserving and pickling in the summer months. They begin as early as mid-February when food items are cheap and in abundance. Thus, giving them ample time to make use of the scorching heat for sun-drying, salting and pickling.
After our month long summer vacation in Goa, my mother would ensure that we return back to Mumbai with enough spices, dried fish and salted pork. She would prepare this pickled pork by marinating the salted meat with a spicy paste ground using vinegar. The pickle is stored in a sterilized container to mature before consumption. On a rainy day, when fresh produce, meat and fish were scarce, she would use some of the pickled meat to make chilli fry. Addition of sliced onions and potatoes contribute to creating a hearty dish. A perfect accompaniment to steaming hot rice and sorak (plain coconut-based curry). Incredibly delicious, tempting, satisfying and nostalgic.
After our month long summer vacation in Goa, my mother would ensure that we return back to Mumbai with enough spices, dried fish and salted pork. She would prepare this pickled pork by marinating the salted meat with a spicy paste ground using vinegar. The pickle is stored in a sterilized container to mature before consumption. On a rainy day, when fresh produce, meat and fish were scarce, she would use some of the pickled meat to make chilli fry. Addition of sliced onions and potatoes contribute to creating a hearty dish. A perfect accompaniment to steaming hot rice and sorak (plain coconut-based curry). Incredibly delicious, tempting, satisfying and nostalgic.
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Making of chilli fry with the pickled pork
Pickled Pork
(Yields 1 kg)
Ingredients:
1 kg 300 grams boneless pork belly
3 tablespoons kosher coarse salt
Method:
Try to use a whole piece of belly. We shop at Costco store where strips of belly pieces are available, which are salted.
Do not wash the belly. Score it lengthwise and breadthwise an inch apart all the way down, but not through the skin.
Liberally salt the belly and place in a basket or an earthenware pot with heavy weight over the meat to draw out moisture. I used the salad spinner and mortar pestle on top of a plastic plate to weigh the pork down. Place in the refrigerator for 7 days moving the belly around once a day ensuring to discard any drawn out liquid.
After a week, dry the belly in a dehydrator turning every hour.
If pieces are used, move racks up and down. It took around four hours to dry.
Alternatively, they can be dried for a longer time in the dehydrator depending on the level of dryness preferred, even in the sun if you don’t have a dehydrator.
Cut salted pork into pieces and transfer to a bowl. No need to rinse the pieces with vinegar as the meat was perfectly salted for pickling.
Spice Paste
Ingredients:
1/2 cup Goa toddy vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup coconut or cashew feni
Grind to a slightly coarse paste (with either 1 and 1/2 cups Goa toddy vinegar or apple cider vinegar)
20 red dried Kashmiri chillies
10 hot red chillies
20 whole black peppercorns
12 cloves
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
4 grams - 2 cinnamon sticks (1.5-inch each)
40 grams garlic cloves
30 grams ginger (peeled)
1/2 gram nutmeg
Method:
Mix the spice paste well with the reserved pork pieces. Rinse the blender jar with the balance 1/2 cup vinegar and pour over the meat mixture along with feni. Stir until well combined.
Store in a sterilized glass container ensuring to immerse the meat completely with the spice paste.
Leave to mature for a month before consumption.
To make Pickled Pork Chilli Fry:
Take a required amount of meat mixture and add potato pieces in a skillet with a dash of water. Cover, cook on medium heat until potatoes and meat are almost done with all the liquid absorbed.
Stir in onion slices and continue to cook on low heat until they are slightly crunchy.
Taste for seasonings, add a dash of vinegar and salt, if required.
Serve garnished with chopped coriander leaves.
Note:
(Yields 1 kg)
Ingredients:
1 kg 300 grams boneless pork belly
3 tablespoons kosher coarse salt
Method:
Try to use a whole piece of belly. We shop at Costco store where strips of belly pieces are available, which are salted.
Do not wash the belly. Score it lengthwise and breadthwise an inch apart all the way down, but not through the skin.
Liberally salt the belly and place in a basket or an earthenware pot with heavy weight over the meat to draw out moisture. I used the salad spinner and mortar pestle on top of a plastic plate to weigh the pork down. Place in the refrigerator for 7 days moving the belly around once a day ensuring to discard any drawn out liquid.
After a week, dry the belly in a dehydrator turning every hour.
If pieces are used, move racks up and down. It took around four hours to dry.
Alternatively, they can be dried for a longer time in the dehydrator depending on the level of dryness preferred, even in the sun if you don’t have a dehydrator.
Cut salted pork into pieces and transfer to a bowl. No need to rinse the pieces with vinegar as the meat was perfectly salted for pickling.
Spice Paste
Ingredients:
1/2 cup Goa toddy vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup coconut or cashew feni
Grind to a slightly coarse paste (with either 1 and 1/2 cups Goa toddy vinegar or apple cider vinegar)
20 red dried Kashmiri chillies
10 hot red chillies
20 whole black peppercorns
12 cloves
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
4 grams - 2 cinnamon sticks (1.5-inch each)
40 grams garlic cloves
30 grams ginger (peeled)
1/2 gram nutmeg
Method:
Mix the spice paste well with the reserved pork pieces. Rinse the blender jar with the balance 1/2 cup vinegar and pour over the meat mixture along with feni. Stir until well combined.
Store in a sterilized glass container ensuring to immerse the meat completely with the spice paste.
Leave to mature for a month before consumption.
To make Pickled Pork Chilli Fry:
Take a required amount of meat mixture and add potato pieces in a skillet with a dash of water. Cover, cook on medium heat until potatoes and meat are almost done with all the liquid absorbed.
Stir in onion slices and continue to cook on low heat until they are slightly crunchy.
Taste for seasonings, add a dash of vinegar and salt, if required.
Serve garnished with chopped coriander leaves.
Note:
- Capsicum slices and green chillies can be included in the chilli fry, as desired.
- A dash of vinegar was added to the chilli fry. No salt was used.
